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Irish Times names 100 winter dining spots after critic's death

The new list honors Corinna Hardgrave, who died recently, and features establishments across Ireland with a focus on value and independent owners.

By Nadia Khalil ·

Illustration for: Irish Times names 100 winter dining spots after critic's death
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The Irish Times has released its annual list of 100 great restaurants to visit in Ireland during the winter months. The publication issued the guide on Thursday, marking it as the final project of restaurant critic Corinna Hardgrave. She passed away recently, and the editors described the list as a tribute to her work.

Hardgrave played a central role in preparing the recommendations. She aimed to support independent dining establishments and specifically sought out venues where main courses cost less than 25 euros. The list includes newly opened spots, vegetarian options, and pubs with notable food and wine offerings. The editors noted that the guide also features recommendations for the festive season and special occasions.

The list spans multiple counties and cities. In Kinsale, Co Cork, All Apologies is featured. Owners Charlie and Brendan O’Sullivan renovated a two-storey building on Pier Road to open this venue. The restaurant serves seasonal small plates and cocktails, with a wine list focused on small organic producers. In Lucan, Co Dublin, Cora has transformed a 200-year-old building on Main Street into a cafe. Chef Paul Brogan serves a menu that includes Turkish eggs and pork belly polenta.

Dublin hosts several entries on the list. Dak, located on Bolton Street in Dublin 7, serves Korean soul food. Owner Kelan O’Reilly offers a 25-euro dosirak meal and fried chicken. Dosa Dosa in Dublin 8 specializes in food from Tamil Nadu, with a focus on the gunpowder ghee masala dosa. Elle’s in Dublin 12 is a brunch cafe known for its coffee hatch and social media presence. Fuoco in Dublin 6 offers Italian and Mediterranean inspired dishes, including fresh pasta and fire-cooked meats.

Other selections include Gaffe at Leonard’s Corner in Dublin 8, where chef Dan Chambers prepares simple, seasonal pub food. Jumon in Dublin 2 serves an Asian-inspired vegetarian and vegan menu. Mark Moriarty Studio in Dublin 2 offers a 22-seat dining experience with a 10-course tasting menu. Matsu Ramen in Newbridge, Co Kildare, features dishes from chef Ken Komatsu, including yuzu tsukemen ramen. In Abbeyleix, Co Laois, Ómós is listed for its 12-course Scandi and Japanese influenced menu.

The list extends to Northern Ireland and other regions. Pickosito in Dublin 1 serves north Mexican food with wheat flour tortillas. Regency House in Belfast offers a refined menu with dishes like saddleback pig rib. Black Sheep in Westport, Co Mayo, serves seafood including Clew Bay scallops and Padraic Gannon oysters. Andhra Bhavan has locations in Dublin and Belfast, with a next opening planned for Cork city. Capparelli at the Mill in Belfast serves pasta and meat dishes at prices around 20 to 23 pounds. Everett’s in Waterford offers winter set menus with local produce.

The editors Joanne Cronin and Ali Dunworth invited readers to support their favorite restaurants, whether or not they appear on the list. They wished readers a cozy season of dining out with family and friends. The list serves as a final professional contribution from Hardgrave, reflecting her fairness and love for the restaurant industry.

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